Expectations were high with Church Street Enoteca being a one chef hat restaurant with institutional status this side of the Yarra.
The establishment affords generous space allowing for privacy while dining and a cool, effortless charm achieved by minimalistic décor. The design is simplicity at its best. White napery graces the sturdy tables, complete with stunning highball wineglasses and polished silverware, warm mustards accent the upholstery and Euro-chic posters frame the walls.
As for the food, classic Italian is what Enoteca is all about, with a “modern Oz” accent, putting local produce to work as much as possible. The menu is supported by what is a rather extensive international wine list.
Given the restaurant is a celebrated establishment I was somewhat disappointed by my dining experience there last week. I must pin point that it comes down largely to the main courses that did not hold up.
Entrée of Agnolotti filled with braised ox cheek and finished with crispy pancetta, peas and mint was an absolute treat for the senses. Tender, flavoursome – deep and fulfilling I really did want and expect a little more. The four miniscule morsels of agnolotti was a rather restricted portion.
For mains Googlie opted the Berkshire Pork Loin which was extremely dry and overcooked. Surprisingly, especially since it came wrapped in prosciutto! None of the moist succulent pork one would expect from such a dish. The crackling was hard, rather than crunchy and missing the customary “crackle” as you cut/bit through. The lentils, caramalised apple and witlof where there, and as they should be, but minus the star of the show it really didn’t make much of a difference!
It was braised suckling lamb with a parmesan crust for me, which was accompanied by gnocchi alla Romana. The lamb was reminiscent of lamb and rosemary sausages removed from their tubing and cooked as you would meatballs in a ragout style sauce. The gnocchi Romana being a semolina version cooked with parmesan, milk, butter, eggs and cream, set and then cut into shapes was a delightful texture and taste. On the whole while the dish was tasty, but failed to impress.
Dessert was by far the star of the show. Yoghurt Panacotta with blackberry compote, apple jelly cubes, cider granita and bits of honeycomb. A delicate visual and sensory delight, the dessert was light and effortless on the tongue with all the components working together well.
With entrées priced around $24 and mains around $40 the expectation is for quality on all accounts. Overall the food was not consistent, instead rather patchy which made for a forgettable meal.
Ambience Elegantly and smart, the décor is the perfect balance of chic without trying too hard.
Service Professional and experienced. However, our waitress let us down by informing us that 3-4 dishes could easily become shared plates, and would be ample. However we were far from satisfied with the portions.
Food Dining at a one chef hat restaurant the expectation is for meals presented to be a standard that is above and beyond that of a good home cook. I was expecting the wow factor but didn’t get it. As for the pork, it was the biggest let down because the dish was simply not executed well and it showed with every mouthful.
Overall 6/10
